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At the mention of El Penedès, anyone who knows even a little about wine will say: "Ah, yes. Cava country." Around 95% of Spain's sparkling wine is produced here, on the gentle hills and high, stony ground 60km south of Barcelona. But behind this bubbly facade there is a secret.

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In Horta de Sant Joan in Tarragona there is an olive tree known locally as el Parot that has been bearing fruit for two millennia. Revered because of its great age, oil from its olives sells for €30 a litre (£24). But round the corner in the local supermarket olive oil retails at only €2 a litre. 

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